French restaurants tell you to eat your vegetables


While most people associate French cuisine with traditional dishes like foie gras, croissants and cassoulets, some chefs have recently turned to more seasonal and vegetable-focused cuisine. This new type of cuisine emphasizes the immediacy and intensity of flavors, but it is also a question of sustainability. To do this, Relais & Châteaux, the association of restaurants, hotels and restaurants, encourages its members, some of whom are listed here, to adopt a more attentive approach to catering. Here, five restaurants that are helping to redefine vegetables.

__The Goat D’Or, Èze __

The ancient hillside town of Eze, just down the coast from Nice, offers some of the best views on the French Riviera. And one of the best places to enjoy it is at La Chèvre d’Or (the golden goat), which opened as a restaurant in the 1950s and has grown over the years into a hotel. remarkable. In this two-Michelin-starred restaurant, chef Arnaud Faye is light-hearted. The emphasis is on local products: in spring, that is, small lively artichokes, small but no less intense tomatoes, white asparagus and various microgreens. But it’s not a no-frills cuisine, it’s very refined – think of an artichoke heart resting in a lime broth, topped with Ossetra caviar, or local chickpeas accompanied by raw king prawns from the neighboring sea. Cheeses ? These come from goats that roam the nearby hills. A visit should include a drink on the terrace and then enjoy a digestif at the bar. Not everything is picked fresh, there is a 1933 Armagnac, which is the perfect way to end any meal.

Elsa, Èze

Just down the hill from Èze is the bustling city of Monaco, which can get a bit overwhelming. However, on the outskirts of town you’ll find the more laid-back Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel. The restaurant, Elsa, is run by the chef of Italian origin Paolo Sari, you are close to the border and the joys of the culinary influence of Piedmont. He also runs the first Michelin-starred restaurant that is entirely organic or organic. Sari buys his seafood at the latest Monaco-based old school fish market, where he has the top pick of red mullet, snapper and sea bass caught the day before. It also partners with several local farmers to provide ingredients for its summer lunch menu, which includes dishes like smoked ricotta cappelletti and a remarkable selection of garden vegetables. Sari also presses her own olive oils and hopes her local conservation philosophy will help her guests rethink their own environmental impact when cooking at home. “We want to change the way people relate to their food. It happens when they come here, ”says Sari. “We want people to think about it when they are shopping for themselves. “

La Réserve, which can be found in the house of the couturier Pierre Cardin.

Courtesy La Reserve Paris Hotel & Spa